Below Zero Sucks – Must Remember Projects

17 Jan

Anchoareg Weather 2012
I’m addicted to climbing.   I think about it all the time, I dream about it, I fantasize about climbing routes and problems.  I like to do other things, but I’m addicted to climbing.  Sometimes that makes living in Alaska tough.  Particularly when the weather decides to sit between -10°F and 0°F for weeks on end. 

Anchorage Weather 2012

It’s too cold to do most things.  Too cold to skate ski, too cold to get out backcountry skiing (for me at least – I’m not that hardcore), too cold to start the car some mornings.

So to combat this cold, I’ve been trying to remember all of my projects for the summer.  Jamie Emerson listed a few on his blog from his trip last summer (see here: http://www.b3bouldering.com/2011/08/03/alaska-final-days/) , and I’ve got quite a few more(too many actually), so here’s my top 5 list (in order of my priority).

1.) The Barstool Project – Awesome arete in the talus below Niffleheim.  I worked this a bit last summer and broke the starting right crimp.  This is basically a gnarly sidepull crimp for the right, a bad sloper for the left, tension of a left heel? and pop up to a decent left crimp.  Set up for a big balancy move to the lip and top out.  Oh yeah, all of this over an intimidating landing pit.  Below is a shot of me on getting ready to do the move to the lip.

Todd working the upper moves of a project after breaking one of the start holds

2.)  The Abomination Project – This project sits just off the trail above the monolith.  Drew and I worked this a bit last summer and Drew stuck the first move.  I really want to get back and clean and try this on a day with better conditions. It starts with a sick core tension move off a poor crimp and heel hook, trending left into better holds.  I direct finish would add what look like hard moves high up, although this hasn’t been cleaned at all.

3.) The Glacial Erotics Projects (plus everything else at Byron) – I only managed to get 1 day in out at Byron, and that was cut short by an unfortunate injury.   Before the injury, we had cleaned a new arete line on the Glacial Erotics boulder which I am super excited to get back to.  In addition to this arete, the center of the face and the right arete had more potential….  Not to mention all of the other pics David’s shown me.

 

Cleaning a new project on the Glacial Erotics Boulder

 4.) Mr. Universe(sit) – This project is on the Traffic boulder in Ptarmigan between Traffic and Epiphany.  I’ve been working this on and off, strong and weak for over 10 years now.  Every move has been done, but I’ve never even been close to linkage.  The crux move is using a dead vertical sidepull while inverted with just a low left heel hook for opposition and moving to a  horrible left hand sloper at full extension.  If your heel stays, you’ve done the crux, now just a taxing sloping slap fest to finish.  This has been on my list way too long and needs to get done.

5.) Fairangel Arete – Jamie found, cleaned and worked this with no luck (either weather or success), and so it sits as a stunning project just waiting to get sent.  This one is about 2/3rd of the way up Tunnel Vision Gulley on the left side.  Jamie has a nice shot of it here: http://www.b3bouldering.com/2011/07/29/alaska-6/.

What are your projects?  What motivates you during the cold dark winter inside?

Winter Motivation and Training

11 Jan

Here’s a couple of new videos David put together for Byron showing some problems he developed there this fall.

Byron Glacier Bouldering Part I from dfugelstad on Vimeo.

Byron Glacier Bouldering Part II from dfugelstad on Vimeo.

Hopefully that’ll help motivate through the winter months.

Here’s the general workout schedule I’ve been on for the last 4 weeks, and will continue on for the next 2-3 weeks.  My current aim is to build finger and pull strength and build capillary flow for my arms.

Weekly:
Monday – Fingerboard/run workout
Tuesday – Mtn Athlete Strength Training / Endurance Climb Session
Wednesday – Fingerboard/run workout
Thursday – Mtn Athlete Strength Training / Endurance Climb Session
Friday – Fingerboard/run workout
Saturday – Outside Fun or Mtn Athlete Strength Training / Endurance Climb Session
Sunday  – Endurance Climb Session(if not on Saturday)

All workouts should be under an hour.

FB/Run workout is:
Warmup 16 min  – 4 x 2 min climb, 2 min run
1) Front 2(index & middle fingers) repeater, 2:00 run
2) Open crimp encore/repeater, 2:00 run
3) Back 2 repeater(Pinky & Ring fingers, currently need assistance), 2:00 run
4) Sloper encore/repeater, 2:00 run
5) Middle 2 (Ring & Middle fingers) repeater, 2:00 run
6) Closed crimp encore/repeater,2:00 run

10 min easy run to rest the fingers, then repeat 1-6,  Cool down with a 5 min run

Repeater = 6x7sec hang,3 sec rest
Encore  = Repeater + Frenchie

Check this site out for more info: http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/training

I’ve progressed on the fingerboard from assisted hangs for the back two and 4-5 sec hangs on the front two, to 3 sec back two hangs and 7 sec front two hangs.  I may start adding weight on the crimps and slopes soon.  Here’s a pic of my New fingerboard:

My new Beastmaker fingerboard setup

Encurance climb sessions focus on time on wall with no pump and recovery from FB workouts – aiming to build to 30min w/no pump & no resting, or 5 min on 45 wall w/no pump. For example, this week I will be doing the following as my two workouts.

Tues –  4 x 13min on, 2 min off

Thurs – 10 x 30moves, 1 min rest

As this are extremely low impact, I am not doing any type of warm up sets.  Pretty much each workout is done at warm-up intensity.

I bouldered for fun today for the first time, no training plan, just having fun.  Up to v7 on the 45wall and Cave felt dead easy, every hold felt like a jug.  Glad to see the finger training is working out.

Rest, Re-set, Re-load

8 Dec

Resting and taking a break is a key feature in almost every book or study about training.  Most athletes have an annual cycle for peaking, and after peaking they will generally take 4-8 weeks off from specific training.  Don’t kid yourself that this is a lazy time.  Top-tier athletes spend so much time and energy training for thier specific sport/event, that they have little time for other fun stuff.  This is when they go do those things. 

After resting and letting the body recover from a difficult season, the first training should be to re-set your body for training.  For most people/sports this means getting the body enough overall fitness to be able to do the specific training later. 

After re-setting the body, it’s time to re-load for your goals.  This is when you bring back the sport specific training.

Using myself as an example:

I decided to take about 6-8 weeks off of climbing(nov to mid-dec).  I pushed hard all summer and feel like I had a breakthrough year. I’m still feeling strong and motivation is still high, but  I lots of little things in my body are telling me they need a break.  Instead of pushing on climbing( and likely hurting myself), I’m going to play and have fun skiing, running, snowboarding, and playing soccer.   My aim is to be doing 2-3 days a week of general conditioning (mainly Mike Barcom’s workouts), 2-3 days of cardio(run/bike/ski), and 2-3 days of fun stuff(soccer, snowboarding, etc.).

After taking the 6-8 weeks off climbing, I’ll start by adding in low-intensity climbing to get my body used to moving on the wall again building up to a fairly high volume of low intensity movement.  In conjunction with this, I’ll be doing strength training for climbing related muscle groups.  I’ll do this for about 6-8 weeks taking me to around early Feb, then transition to power-endurance work for another 6-8 weeks.   Around early April I’ll shift to power to prepare for summer bouldering.  Hopefully, having an initial peak in May/June, then re-grouping in June/July for a second peak in August/September.

I tend to do well with structured training, some people don’t.  Either way, pay close attention to what your body is telling you, becuase there are normally signs that you’re in the red-zone and on the verge of an injury.   All fall I felt strong, but there were also very subtle signs and aches.  I could tell I was walking a fine line, and this time I got lucky I didn’t cross it.  In the past, I wouldn’t have paid attention to those subtle signs/feelings and I would have neded up injured. 

If you don’t plan a rest for your body and always push hard, eventually you’ll end up taking a break through injury.

I’m getting back to climbing Sunday – Hopefully it’ll go well, and I’ll have another productive injury free summer. 

 

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