Archangel Again

I got in a short day up at Archangel again on Sunday.  I hiked up above the monolith with my daughter Isabella, to a boulder I had been on many years ago and had left with a couple of project lines.  I spent some time cleaning and warming up and then Drew and Will showed up.

This boulder sits right along the main trail that heads back to the Lane Hut.  If you park at the end of Archangel road and follow the trail to the right of the monolith, you can’t miss this boulder as you come around the lake at the top of the monolith.

The first couple lines we warmed up on are ones I remember having climbed with Chris Terry about 10-12 years ago when we first started climbing in Archangel.  I don’t remember the names, so if anyone does remember, let me know.  The first is on the southwest corner of the boulder and is a funky sit start that went at about v3/4.  The next problem we did starts on an obvious rail system and trends up and right across the tall face and gets progressively easier the higher you get. This v5 or v6sd is a really classic line and deserves to get alot more traffic.  The next thing I moved to was a direct start to the v5.  It starts on a couple of small crimps in the seam that splits the middle of the face and moves straight up via a big move off really bad feet.  I remember working on this a while back and thought it still hadn’t been climbed.  I happened to see Sean Gwaltney hiking back up the trail and he indicated he had done this a while back.  I’ll have to ask Sean what he thought of the grade, but it felt about v9ish to me.

Me on v8/9ish problem on top of monolith

Next up was a project on the north prow of the boulder.  Drew, Will, and I all worked this and figured out beta for the first move, but couldn’t piece together anything else at this point.  One to come back to.

I only had a short time so I had to leave, but Drew and Will continued up the valley to check out to a really old v8ish prow which I did about 10-12 years ago, and I think may be called Chris’ Lament. They also headed up to the Lane hut boulders and did a new line there called Curser Arete – v3sd.  Here are a couple pics of those:

Will Crowther on Curser Arete - v3sd Photo by Drew Crowther

Lane Hut Boulders

On a different note, I keep seeing more and more boulders that I think  have been cleaned by other people(I may be going senile and just can’t remember them).  If you have info on stuff that you’ve cleaned/climbed, let me know as I am trying to compile information for a guide at some point in the future.  I’m also working on releasing mini-guides as I get the time/info available.