Archangel

Another beautiful day out in Hatcher’s.  I cannot believe how lucky we’ve been with the weather.  It seems like we’ve had nice patches of weather every weekend for the last 4-5 weeks.  I’m sure that’s not the case but it feels like it.  

Anyway, I headed up to Archangel later(around 3ish)  due to work, and met Tanya and my wife on their way back from the Aldershade boulder.  They had gone out earlier in the day and ended up meeting Drew and Will there.  Tanya and my wife both raved about it and were amazed I had driven them by this boulder and had never shown it to them. 

 I continued up Archangel to the end of the road as I wanted to clean a couple of boulders just off the road.  The first was the Roadside Boulder, which has a line I haven’t done yet on the far right side of the boulder.  I cleaned this, but wasn’t up for it without spotters.  So for anyone with big cajones, this line is primed and ready.  It looks about v5-6ish.  I also noticed there might be a sit start to the roadside arete.  It’ll be hard, but the holds seem mostly there…

Next I headed up the road just a bit to what I’ve nicknamed the campground boulders.  Last year while we were camping there I noticed the potential for some problems right off the road.  I have no idea how I’d missed them for all these years.  Anyway, last year I had done one line on the biggest boulder, but didn’t have the tools to clean the rest of the boulder.  This year I made sure I had my cleaning kit and went to work and scrubbed 5 new lines.  Right as I was finishing cleaning, Stephen, Drew and Will showed up.  Stephen headed out to go boulder/develop with David Funatake, while Will and Drew stuck around to check out the new lines I had cleaned.

First up was a line on left end of the north side of the boulder called Fools Rush In – v4. This starts off a decent matched crimp, then a big move to a sidepull, and a big move to a sloper.  Hit the top from there and you’re done.

Will Crowther on Fools Rush In - v4

The line to right of Fools Rush In starts off two low crimps and moves to a good sidepull, which is matched before making a move right to a slopey seam.  This wound up taking a few tries to figure out the right body position for the match on the sidepull.  In the end I think v5 for Insomnia seems about right.

After these, we moved to a nice overhung arete on the northwest corner with all types of bad holds angled all the wrong ways.  Will and I got quite the ab workout just trying to figure out how to start the darn problem.  In the end, after about 2 hours of work, I found a really hard sequence of pinches, gastons,  a bad heel hook, and a toe scum(I’d call it a toe hook, but there wasn’t really a hold to hook), which resulted in my hardest problem of the season so far – Narcolepsy-v10. 

Here is a pic of the north side of the boulder. Will is sitting under Fools Rush In and Drew is sitting under Narcolepsy.

North Face of Sleeping Giant Boulder

Drew and Will worked Narcolepsy but were not having any luck figuring out the right body position, so we moved around the corner. Next up was a tricky sit start pulling onto a tall slab face.  Will gave it a couple goes, but the starting hold(an incut right hand gaston) was super sharp and painful, not to mention the feet were really bad for trying to get off the ground.   I figured out super gangle beta involving a toe hook, forearm smear, bicycle and a very high pain tolerance, which allowed me to send Hypersomnia-v7.  Last on the plate was a tall slab face with a low crux trying to get established on the slab.  Will and I both managed to send Stand and Deliver-v3 to finish the day.

Hopefully I’ll get some info back from David and Stephen and can check out the stuff they cleaned.