Back to Archangel in the Rain

So right after posting about not getting outside, I get a free day and head to Archangel with Chris B., Josh H., Dusty, and Anna.  Josh and Dusty hadn’t been bouldering in Archangel before, so I took them on the Diamond/Fairangel tour ending up at Girlfriend Boulder.  We warmed up there for a bit and while everything was a bit damp, it was climbable.  Josh spied a nice variation to Psycho Ex, starting on Tank Girl and traversing the right leaning arete into the crux of Psycho Ex.  It adds about 5 moves, but is about the same difficulty as the straight up version.

After that we headed over to try Drew’s new problem Candide.  This problem is in a group of boulders at the bottom left of tunnel vision gully, just past the pond.  We also cleaned/climbed two new problems in the same boulder group.  It had started raining while we figured out Candide, so the top-outs were a bit wet, adding that little bit extra spice.  The lower right problem Singing in the Rain – v6  has a bit of a dirt-burglar start, but once in position to pull off the fin feature, it climbs really well.  The second line to the left (unnamed -v5) starts matched on the fin and goes straight up.  There are probably about 10-15 more moderate problems to be done here.

Josh on Singing in the Rain - v6 Photo by Chris Barnett

Next, we headed up to Clan of the Cave Trolls, a new v10 Brian Capps put up last month while visiting from Colorado.  The beta is pretty straight forward, mostly revolving around a high heel toe cam and a punchy move from a poor crimp on the roof.  After falling off the top-out second go (wet and dirty holds make for a very hard topout), I had three brainfart’s mid climb, then sent it 6th go.  Josh worked this for a bit, but had a hard time locking his heel in for the crux move.

While I was working this, Dusty, Josh, and Chris cleaned a new problem that starts off the same low jug as Clan of the Cave Trolls and goes leftward to the lip and tops out via a neat move.

Chris Barnett on new v3 Photo by Josh Hoeschen

Lastly we headed down and both Josh and Chris B fired off The Insider.

4 new problems and a couple of hard repeats made for a great day in the rain.