Training Links

As winter quickly approaches and the outdoor season comes to an end, I’ve started to think about training options over the winter.

I was talking with Drew the other day a little bit about training for climbing and he commented that it was really hard to find any good detailed information.  I agree with him.  I’ve been looking for a very long time, and have found very little. 

To help everyone out, here are a few sites I’ve found over the years: – This is a site by Mike Doyle.  He’s coached at a very high level, and also climbed at a very high level for quite some time. He’s got a good training guide document covering all of the basics for a competitive climber.  This may be the most comprehensive plan I’ve found. – These Brits have a great site on finger-boarding exercises. – While Rich Simpson may or may not have climbed all of the stuff he said he did.  It is known that he was a training beast and this site has some good tips on training.  The campus section is particularly good. – Italian site by a dude who climbs 14d.  He’s got some good thoughts on the neuro side of things and how strength and technique bland together. – Erik Horst’s site on training for climbing.  He’s the guy who invented the H.I.T. Strips. – Classic book about the mental aspects of climbing and how to train your mind. – Search around and you’ll find some good articles about training on this site.