Winter Motivation and Training

Here’s a couple of new videos David put together for Byron showing some problems he developed there this fall.

Byron Glacier Bouldering Part I from dfugelstad on Vimeo.

Byron Glacier Bouldering Part II from dfugelstad on Vimeo.

Hopefully that’ll help motivate through the winter months.

Here’s the general workout schedule I’ve been on for the last 4 weeks, and will continue on for the next 2-3 weeks.  My current aim is to build finger and pull strength and build capillary flow for my arms.

Weekly:
Monday – Fingerboard/run workout
Tuesday – Mtn Athlete Strength Training / Endurance Climb Session
Wednesday – Fingerboard/run workout
Thursday – Mtn Athlete Strength Training / Endurance Climb Session
Friday – Fingerboard/run workout
Saturday – Outside Fun or Mtn Athlete Strength Training / Endurance Climb Session
Sunday  – Endurance Climb Session(if not on Saturday)

All workouts should be under an hour.

FB/Run workout is:
Warmup 16 min  – 4 x 2 min climb, 2 min run
1) Front 2(index & middle fingers) repeater, 2:00 run
2) Open crimp encore/repeater, 2:00 run
3) Back 2 repeater(Pinky & Ring fingers, currently need assistance), 2:00 run
4) Sloper encore/repeater, 2:00 run
5) Middle 2 (Ring & Middle fingers) repeater, 2:00 run
6) Closed crimp encore/repeater,2:00 run

10 min easy run to rest the fingers, then repeat 1-6,  Cool down with a 5 min run

Repeater = 6x7sec hang,3 sec rest
Encore  = Repeater + Frenchie

Check this site out for more info: http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/training

I’ve progressed on the fingerboard from assisted hangs for the back two and 4-5 sec hangs on the front two, to 3 sec back two hangs and 7 sec front two hangs.  I may start adding weight on the crimps and slopes soon.  Here’s a pic of my New fingerboard:

My new Beastmaker fingerboard setup

Encurance climb sessions focus on time on wall with no pump and recovery from FB workouts – aiming to build to 30min w/no pump & no resting, or 5 min on 45 wall w/no pump. For example, this week I will be doing the following as my two workouts.

Tues –  4 x 13min on, 2 min off

Thurs – 10 x 30moves, 1 min rest

As this are extremely low impact, I am not doing any type of warm up sets.  Pretty much each workout is done at warm-up intensity.

I bouldered for fun today for the first time, no training plan, just having fun.  Up to v7 on the 45wall and Cave felt dead easy, every hold felt like a jug.  Glad to see the finger training is working out.