Training Results

This fall I set up my first real training program for climbing.  I’ve always climbed and done sort of adhoc training, but never actually sat down and wrote out a training program.    So far I’m sold just based on the results.  My technique, strength and power are all as good as I can ever remember, and I feel like I can continue improving. I leave in a couple of days for Joe’s Valley and am pretty optimistic.

Training can be distilled down to five concepts:  specificity, adaptation, recovery and compensation, basic physics, and kinesiology.  I’m fascinated by the simplicity and complexity inherent in each of these concepts.  Add in a starting point(self-assessment) and an end point(goal setting) and these five concepts act as map and compass to guide you along your route to improvement. 

Specificity: If you want to get better at something, the most best way to get better is to do it.  i.e. to become a better climber, you should climb. 

Adaptation: Definition – modification of an organism or its parts that makes it more fit for existence under the conditions of its environment.  Your body will respond and change to meet the needs put upon it. 

Recovery and compensation:  When you workout, there is a period of time required to recover to your maximum.  This varies depending on the workout.  You body will respond to the workout by attempting to adapt to the stress placed on and become stronger so that the next time it encounters that stress it will be more capable to performing. Timing is KEY to this (See presentation here – Particularly through slide 7).

Physics: This is basically learning about direction of forces exerted.  While simple, this is often misunderstood. 

Kinesiology: Definition – the study of the principles of mechanics and anatomy in relation to human movement.  This combines the physics related to the holds with how your body can generate the forces needed to move.  This is TECHNIQUE. 

These ALL apply to every form of climbing, and once you put them all together you begin to understand how to plan your own training program.