Summertime Training Thoughts

The last post on training talked about the fingerboard workouts I’ve been doing for the last 6 months.  I am about to start on my third cycle of finger training and will be doing another slightly different method of training.  Each of the methods I’ve used has had benefits and I know that you should try to replicate cycles to see the long-term effect, and I do intend on doing this, but not for another 3-4 months.  Over the winter I’ll be refining the cycles I’ve done this past winter.

Over the summer, my plan is to do two max finger recruitment workouts a week on Tues and Thurs/Fri.  In addition to this training, I’ll be increasing my endurance training and continuing to work on body composition through running stretching and eating healthy. I’ll also be trying to climb outside 1-2 times a week.

I can tell my fingers are stronger than they’ve ever been, but I still feel like there is room to continue improving.  My plan is to basically follow Eva Lopez’s training concepts.  The basic gist of it is to do a 4-week cycle of 2 workouts a week of:

Warm-up: Movement exercises, 2×5 minutes traversing, 2-4 boulder problems of increasing difficulty

Progressive sets: 2 x 10 sec hang @ 50% of max load, 2 x 10 sec hang @ 80% of max load, 2 x 10 sec hang @ 90% of max load, 3 minutes rest between each hang

Maximum Recruitment Work-out:  3-5 x 10sec hang @ 100% of max load, 3min rest between each hang

Followed by a 4-week cycle of 2 workouts a week of:

Warm-up: Movement exercises, 2×5 minutes traversing, 2-4 boulder problems of increasing difficulty

Progressive sets: 2 x 10 sec hang @ 18mm edge, 2 x 10 sec hang @ 13mm edge, 2 x 10 sec hang @ 10mm edge, 3 minutes rest between each hang

Maximum Recruitment Work-out:  3-5 x 10sec hang @ 8mm edge, 3min rest between each hang

I will adjust the hold size so that the maximum hangs are on the smallest hold I can hang for 10 seconds.