A Quick Update

This’ll be quick and short.  In the last few weeks there has been some nice new stuff cleaned and climbed and some exploration going on.

For starters, about two weeks ago, David and I finished cleaning some stuff I had partially cleaned up in Fairangel Gap (or Tunnel Vision Gully – I’m not sure what the most used name is at the moment) and climbed a stellar new v4 arete.  Then we headed up to Jamie’s Arete.  I tried this and got shut down, so we spent some time cleaning some other new stuff around there.  Many of the lines had already been cleaned, or at least partially cleaned.  We dusted them off and climbed about 7 lines, and there were another 5-6 that were already cleaned that we didn’t get on as well.  The prizes were a really nice v2 slab, and a cool v7/8ish problem that had been cleaned and started down in a pit.

The pit problem we climbed which had been previously cleaned.

The v7/8ish pit problem we climbed which had been previously cleaned. If you cleaned this or know who did, please let us know.

Then we finished off the day at the Dirty Cave (this is being renamed to the Dirty Hobo Cave) where we finished cleaning off the “project” in the guidebook on page 137 #2, which is now Bloody Hobo – v5, as well as cleaning a new line on the left side of the cave which went at v2.


David on Dirty Cave – v7

David has spent a bit of time out at both Byron, where he finished off the Shere Khan Project (Page 58#2, now Shere Khan – v8), and at Hatchers cleaning new stuff up in Fairangel Valley.

Keenen on Shere Khan - v8

Keenen on Shere Khan – v8

In addition, we headed up to north to the Augtoberfest at 49th State Brewery and checked out the Tatlanika Boulders while we were there.  We only made it to the Welcome Boulder, but it was well worth a stop if you’re in the area.

I made it back out to Archangel for a short session at the Dimond North Area.  We put up a new line on the Zen boulder that starts the same as Zen (high left undercling and right crimp), and heads left into the top of Clarity. The new line is called The Power of No – v9.  Then we headed over to a new boulder (now dubbed the Scrunchy Boulder) which I had cleaned on a previous visit, but didn’t climb., and added three new lines with the best being a dabby, but fun, line called Humanoid from the Depth – v6ish. The other two were a decent v0 up an arete that needs a bit more cleaning and a campusy v6.


Will getting to the crux of Zen -v7 sandbag

Meanwhile David’s been out a bit more developing up in Fairangel putting up a few problems in the talus above wonderland.  I managed to get out with him and Chris B for a bit of a rainy day, but we were able to clean and put up a few more lines in the area.  This is an area with a ton of potential (our guess is 500+ problems in the talus along the south side of Fairangel valley), and there are definitely lines that have been cleaned and likely climbed.  I currently know of about 60-80 problems, and there are at least a couple dozen I can tell are cleaned, but have no idea who/when they were done.  If you’ve developed in this area, please let me know so I can start getting records sorted out.


David trying hard on the opening move of a new problem in the fairangel Talus.

David trying hard on the opening move of a new problem in the Fairangel Talus.

Sorry we haven’t been getting more posts up, but while we’ve been slowly getting stuff cleaned, we haven’t any particularly spectacular days of development, or any really classic new stuff done.  Just steady good progress.