2013 Season Recap – Sorry it’s Late

The season is now in full swing, so I figured I should post all of the updates from last year that I’ve been sitting on forever.  I was hoping to get some more pics in the post, but that’s been a computer challenge for some reason…. If you know of more development I don’t have listed, please let me know and I’ll get it added in.


With most of the prime lines at Byron being plucked over the last two seasons, the remaining lines were either tall and heady, really hard, or both. Using the early season snow in April to help with the landing, Keenen established Dirty Little Mistress-v3 up the right arête of the Erotics Boulder. Later in the season, but while still enjoying the comfort of a snow landing, visiting Coloradan Jamie Emerson grabbed the first ascent of the Arkenstone Arête to establish Smaug-v8. David was able to knock off a long-standing project on the Jungle Boulder establishing Shere Khan-v8. A little bit later in the season, I came back and linked a sit start on the left Erotics arête into Glacial Erotics creating Co-dependency-v7. The straight up the arête still needs to go though. I was too chicken after an early season fall off the top into the snow bowl, so I’m waiting for spring. Up at the Lorax Boulder two other projects were completed: The Truffala Tree-v8 (just right of The Once-ler) and Thneed-v6 (just right of Fire Escape).


David spent a bit of time developing up near Ptarmigan in June and July. First up was knocking out the problems on the Angel Wing Boulder in the bowl. He climbed all except one of the problems listed in the guidebook as projects in addition to adding a new line, all between v1-v4.

He also did some exploring further up the trail past the Ptarmigan bowl developing a new boulder a the base of the Wedge, a small area at the base of Avalanche Peak, and a new small area dubbed Goat Haven, putting up about 20 problems in total.

Lion Head:

Early in the season David spent some time bushwhacking and exploring the area along the river below the south side of the Lion Head near Matanuska Glacier. After a two trips out there only 8 problems had been done, with possibly 30 – 40 remaining to be done. The hike in is pretty rough going and takes about an hour of bushwhacking to get to the first of the boulders which are spread out along a talus field between the river and the main wall.

Hatcher Pass:

Hatcher’s saw quite a bit of development over the summer, starting as soon as the gate opened in June and continuing until the snow fell in early October.

Archangel Valley:

Diamond South:

This area saw quite a bit of development and if there had been a bit less rain, it would likely have seen even more. A new/old area called the Muffin Garden was cleaned and developed at the south end of the Muffin Man meadow. This area stretches from the boulders at the south end of meadow up to about the Captain Jack Boulder. David spent quite a bit of time cleaning in the area, which is now a fun place for easy-moderate bouldering with about 15 more problems in the v0-v5 range. Favorites include Beef Nectar v3 and Happy Endings V2.

The low start to The Barstool (Barstool Bear-v10) was also climbed by Jamie Emerson during his visit, although the sit start still remains as a project adding one incredibly hard move to the low start.

A couple of new lines were done near Captain Jack: Alaskan Amber-v6 is a highball on the same boulder, and House Bitters-v7 is in a cave just past the highball. Further up the gully a couple of more easy lines were cleaned, one was a really nice crimpy face climb Dan Kryger cleaned and climbed that went at v1. Five more problems were done on the “David’s Cave” boulder between v0-v2.

Diamond North:

The big items of note in this area were the new additions to the Zen boulder. Clarity -v4 is a top-notch problem up the tall East face of the Zen boulder. The arête (Breakdown-v7/v9sd) was also climbed, albeit following the good seam right to the easy topout. Someone should definitely go back and clean and look at finishing straight up as this would be a really proud line. Zen was also tried quite a bit and the consensus is that v7 is pretty sandbagged, and it’s likely closer to the v9 range.

In addition to these, David developed 4 new problems (v1,v2,v5, and v5) just behind the Crackhead Boulder. I also finished developing a boulder from last year adding a new v5 and a new v6 down in a pit about 100 feet north of Crackhead.

Fairangel Valley:

A good deal of development went on in Fairangel valley, particularly in the Wonderland Talus on the south side of the valley. David was the first to get in on the action this year and was inspired by the area putting up a new lines despite the constant rain and wet moss late in the season. His best contributions in the area were probably the outstanding Rabbit Hole-v7+, Aether Arete, and Angel is a Centerfold-v4 in addition quite a few other problems. I also got in on the action helping to clean more lines with the proudest being a project scoped out by Jamie Emerson while he was visiting, Through the Looking Glass-v10/11. Visiting climbers Flann, Peter, and Shannon also did some cleaning and developing in this area, although I haven’t tracked down the details for their stuff yet.

Tunnel Vision Gully:

This area saw quite a bit of traffic, and we’ve still only scratched the surface. I think once everything has been cleaned, this will be the largest and densest bouldering spot in Hatchers. David and I added about 20 problems in total with the highlights being Mantelslab Right-v3, Say Ahh-v4, The Prodigal Son-v1, and The Sheriff-v12.

Upper Fairangel:

The only one I heard about from this area is a new problem near the upper lake put up by Jamie Emerson called Jelly Belly-v9/10.


My first day up to Hatcher Pass this year was spent developing a couple of big boulders on the west side of the top of the plateau behind the monolith with a pretty big crew. We started off at the Minecart Boulder at the base of an old abandoned mine, putting up 6 new lines including one of the best v3’s in Hatcher Pass, a tall proud arête called Mine Shaft. Then David and I headed over to the Dreamscapes Boulder and climbed 8 more lines, although several of them had likely been done before as some of the holds were cleaned. The best of this bunch were the stand start of Dreamscapes-v3 on the southeast arête, and Abstract Art-v6 up the east face.

A few filler problems were done on the backside of the Hulk Boulder as well.

Lane Hut:

Last season Drew and Will opened up 4 really good hard crimp lines on the waterfall wall. This year David, Stephen Arwine, Hunter, and Will and cleaned three lines up the right hand side of the face. David also spent some time at the main Lane Hut boulders, but only put up 1 new line. Topos and documentation of existing problems needs to be done to get more people out to this area.


In June we managed to get to Independence with a pretty good crew and were able to knock out a few of the projects in the Talus. I thought they were all pretty good, but the best of the bunch is a new line David did called Kick Ass Moustache-v2.

Past Summit Lake:

Eddie Faye spent some time cleaning and bouldering in a new area over the pass towards Willow. He has pictures and such on his website.