Guidebook Updates

Updates as of 8/8/13


Page 40 #2 v2 – stand start and do one awful move to easy climbing. Potential for an even more awful low start.

Page 40 #3 Beetle Wing v1 – stand start on opposing crimps and fun climbing

Page 40 #4 Chicken Wing v3 – Funky sit start with rock between legs and climb out right side of arete.

Page 40 #5 Ruffled v2 – Climb the delicate slab

Page 40 #6 Feather Weight v1 – fun climbing up the rail


Byron Glacier

Page 58 #2 Shere Khan v8sds – Sit start with right hand on side pull and left hand on low arete. Power compression moves to the top.

Page 62 #4 Smaug v8sds – Sit start matched on the good rail and climb the arete.

Page 67 #5a Codependency v7sds – Sit start on the arete and climb into Glacial Erotics to top out. Finishing up the arete still needs to be done.

Page 68 #7 Dirty Little Mistress v3 – Sit start on the arete on the right side of the overhang, climb committing and scary moves to the top.  Falling off the top could be dangerous.

Page 76 #2 Update Grade to v6

Page 76 #4 The Truffula Tree v8 – Sit start with left hand on the pinch, right hand on a good hold. Climb up and right in the topout for #5

Page 76 #6 Thneed v6 – Felt surprisingly hard.  Start matched on the flat ledge, and climb straight up the groove.

Archangel Valley

Page 117 #1 Lower start (v10) was done from low right crimp and nothingish type hold in the scoop.  Make a hard move to the “ear”, and finish up the stand.  I was told there’s no way the stand is v4, more like v7…..

Page 134 #2 Clarity v4 – Start on head height rails and poor feet.  Head straight up the face on decent holds and big moves.

Page 134 #4 Breakdown v7 / v9sd – Sit start on a high left crimp and a low right rail feature.  Head to the arete and link into the stand start.  Stand start left hand pinching the arete, and right hand on a bad hold.  Throw right hand up to a sloper, climb up to a rail and  follow the rail right to top out.

Page 134 #5 SimpleR v1 – Start on crimps under the high dihedral and climb straight up through the dihedral to top out.

Page 137 new  Grubby Fun v2 – to the right of #1. Sit start on low jug, reach up to another good hold, then set your feet for a funky mantle.

Page 137 #2 Bloody Hobo v5sd – Sit start low on the right arete, and follow the arete up and left to the top.

Page 158 # 6 Raise the Banner  v2 – slab rails to lip

Independence Mine

Page 174 #1 Rock n Roll v5sd – Sit start on the jug.

Page 174 #5 v1 – Stad start on crimps, and head right across the seam to the lip.

Page 174 #6 Petting a Porcupine v6sd – Sit start and squeeze your way up the overhung prow

Page 174 #7 Kick Ass Mustache v2sd – Sit start on jugs, and follow good holds up and right.

Page 174 #8 Incidental v5sd – This problem starts on the same holds as #7, and head up and left on good crimps to a big throw at the top.